Run and Play to Help Keep Arthritis Away

It's no surprise that most animals will be affected by arthritis at some point in their lives.  This is especially true for large and giant breed dogs.  These dogs are highly susceptible to joint arthritis after the age of seven, but can exhibit signs of arthritis even earlier than that.  It's important that we do our best to prolong healthy joints and/or decrease our dogs' chances of developing arthritis.

First things first... when purchasing a breed that you know is prone to joint disease such as Lab, Golden Retriever, Great Dane or German Shepherd, it is important to purchase from a responsible breeder who screens against diseases such as hip and elbow displasia.  Genetics play an important role in the incidence of arthritis in your dog.

Genetic screening, although important, is still not enough to keep your dog from developing arthritis.  A significant common factor in arthritis is OBESITY!  Dogs that are allowed to become obese are certainly likely to develop arthritis earlier than a fit, trim, athletic dog.  A good high quality diet fed at least twice a day and ample exercise will keep your dog in optimal condition.  As I have said in previous posts, a dog must be fed according to their activity level, NOT what the bag says.  A dog that doesn't exercise doesn't need to eat as much!

This brings me to my next tip:  EXERCISE!!  A daily walk is necessary for good muscle conditioning.  However, this is not an adequate form of exercise to build muscle and maintain optimal condition.  Running is exercise that will actually burn the excess weight off your dog and create strong musculature.  Swimming is another great way to maintain muscle for the older dog, since it is a non weight bearing exercise.  The most important thing  when preventing the clinical symptoms of arthritis is muscle mass.  Without muscle, arthritis will debilitate your dog faster and more aggressively. 

So remember, arthritis will continue to affect millions of pets.  However, it should always be a goal to postpone the development of the disease so your pet can live longer and with minimal discomfort in her golden years.

Stephanie Severson, CVT

Weight Loss For Kitty

Last week, we talked about Maude, our slightly plump older cat.  While Maude knows she’s perfect just the way she is, we as owners know our overweight cats would lead longer, healthier lives if they could take off a few pounds.  As with any creature (dog, cat, human J), the best way to take off pounds is to reduce calories and increase exercise.  Now that the weather is finally improving, we have the desire to be outside and move around a little.  Maude can see the outside just fine from her comfortable window seat, thank you very much.  She thinks watching you weed your garden is as close as she needs to get to exercise. 

How do we encourage Maude to take off a few pounds?  First of all, take it slow.  Don’t deprive a cat of food or try to reduce intake too quickly.  Starting a diet program should always be discussed with your veterinarian.  It’s not healthy for a cat to lose too much weight too quickly.  If you’re switching to a lower calorie food (or any new diet), gradually wean your cat(s) onto it over a 5 to 7 day period.  “He’ll eat when he’s hungry” does not work in cats.  If your cat turns his nose up at food for more than a day or two, he can develop serious health problems.  If your cat doesn't want to eat the mix with the new food, back off to a mix with more of the old food.  If the new diet is absolutely unacceptable, see if another diet might work better.

There are a few tricks of the diet trade to help manage kitty's food intake.  First, feed kitty for the weight you want her to be, not the weight she is now.  Second, make sure you have a measuring cup to accurately measure food.  When you actually measure the makeshift serving cup you use, you may find that it holds a lot more food than you thought.  You can also use a kitchen scale for even more accurate measurements.   Also, consider feeding your cat a few times a day rather than letting her forage all day.  This way, you can keep track of what she's eating.  This may also help you notice more quickly if she ever starts to lose her appetite-one of the few signs cats give us when they're ill or injured.

Now for the fun bits:  If you want get a little creative, you can kill two birds with one stone.  Consider fashioning 'foraging toys' for your plump cat (and maybe a few for your overactive kitty).  Foraging toys are simply toys that help our cats work a little more for their dinner.  This provides mental stimulation, excitement, and that much-needed exercise.  A foraging toy can be made out of something as simple as an old egg carton.  Sprinkle some dry food inside the container and then poke a few paw-sized holes in the top.  Your cat will do the rest.  For more ideas, read this article on feline foraging. 

Finally, here’s a simple answer for a frustrating challenge.  What if I have more than one cat?  How can I let my thin cat(s) have food without my overweight cat acting as a self-appointed cleanup crew?  First, you can have several different feeding stations (which will also cut down on intimidation around the food bowls for cats like Violet).  You may also consider feeding your thinner cats on a counter the overweight cat can't reach.  What about the motivated fat cat who can spring amazingly well?  Try a box with a hole cut in the side through which only your thinner cat can fit!

Kelley Wagner, C.V.T.

A Weighty Topic

The topic of today's discourse is the most important of health problems, OBESITY!  I'm not just talking about the 10 or 20% of the animals I examine, but approximately 50% or dogs and 70% of cats!!!  In the following lines, I will discuss why you should be concerned if Felix or Fido is carrying around a few extra pounds and what steps you can take to turn this situation around.

Many things contribute to obesity, but the most common of these is TOO MUCH FOOD.  A fourteen pound poodle does not require a 2000 calorie-a-day diet.  Treats and people food run up the calorie count in a hurry.  (Just because it's called a doggy bag, doesn't mean the contents must go to the doggy.)  Now, I'm not suggesting that you should not reward or treat your pet, but do so in moderation.  A philosophy I try to instill in my own pets is that a treat is not special because  a juicy bit of steak is in the offering, but because the treat comes directly from my hand and is not just in the food bowl.  In fact, my hound dog's treats are simply pieces of his own kibble, and he's always thrilled to receive them.

Now let's take a serious look at the number of calories required to get your pet through a typical day.  The day starts with a journey into the great outdoors first thing in the a.m. to do his or her "duty", followed by a trek to the food bowl, then that ever demanding nap, then perhaps a turn around the block or a few laps in the back yard to fetch the ball, followed by a nap, then another meal, more bathroom duties, followed by bedtime.  Not a terribly demanding schedule.  I realize not all pets are this sedentary, but very few are out herding livestock or hunting for a living either.  The most demanding activity in most cats' lives is following the sun beam around the house for an ever more cozy nap.

Not all pets are overweight due to overeating; there may be a disease process at work in middle aged and older pets that result in easier weight gain.  For instance, a common disorder among dogs in hypothyroidism.  Since the thyroid hormone in effect regulates the body's metabolic rate, dysfunction of the gland usually results in increased body weight.  As pets age, they often become arthritic in one or more joints.  This leads to a reluctance to exercise. 

So what if your pet is a bit chunky?  After all, he's not training for the  Olympics or a beauty pageant, right?  Well we all know that obesity is not a healthy situation for people, and the same is true for our four-legged friends.  Obesity contributes to and exacerbates arthritis: common sense dictates that a weak or degenerated joint is only going to suffer further from supporting excessive weight.  Conditions affecting the heart, lungs and trachea can be caused or seriously complicated by obesity.  Excessive body weight may contribute to certain hormonal abnormalities such as diabetes, and it certainly makes their management more difficult.  Most alarming is the fact that obese pets live 20-30% shorter lives than thin pets.  Due to decreased activity and increased incidence of disease, they also live less satisfying lives.  Sure, they love to eat and get treats and rewards, but do them and yourself a favor:  don't kill them with kindness.

If you feel your pet may be overweight, consult your veterinarian.  A thorough examination should be conducted prior to starting a weight reduction program.  A disorder may be uncovered that should be managed prior to weight loss.  Your pet's doctor will also be able to help you plan an effective strategy based on your animal's specific situation.  This strategy will undoubtedly include a regular meal schedule (I recommend two a day), measured meals, periodic weigh ins, and in many instances, retraining yourself and your pet to a healthy system of treats and rewards.  In the end, the mechanics of any weight reduction program revolve around decreased caloric intake and increased caloric use.  There are two ways to decrease caloric intake: less of what your pet already eats or a similar volume of food with less calories.  I think we all know how to increase caloric usage.  Yes, exercise.  Who knows?  Whipping Rover into shape may also get you into shape as well.

~~Brian Ray, DVM